FIRST TIMEr’s GUIDE TO PARIS: top things to see and do
Paris is one of my favorite European cities - ok, it IS my favorite European City. What’s not to love? Gorgeous architecture, the Eiffel Tower, Montmartre, Van Gogh. I could go on and on.
My favorite neighborhood in Paris - Montmartre
I have visited Paris every year since 2016 (minus 2020) and every time we visit I learn something new. Each trip we stay about three days and then venture out of the city for a couple of days to explore. Every visit we try to add something that we’ve never seen before. This guide is designed for the first time visitor to Paris with about three days to explore or the repeat visitor looking for something new to add to their itinerary.
I highly encourage you to pair any Paris trip with a side trip out of the city. Everything is easily connected by train so that you can be in Normandy, London or Brussels in a just a couple of hours.
GETTING HERE
If you’re flying from the U.S., you will fly into Charles de Gaulle airport (or CDG). The airport is located about thirty minutes northeast of the City of Paris. Once you arrive you have several options on how you will get into Paris.
Train: This is the cheapest option. There is a train station in Terminal 2. Just follow the signs after you exit customs. We felt like we walked three miles to get there. Pay close attention as you’ll have to take a set of escalators to the lower level to find the platforms. There are staff on hand at various locations to help. Depending on what terminal you fly into, you can exit the airport and hop on the free shuttle CDGVAL . The RER B Train takes about 30 minutes to get into Paris and stops at various stations. You can purchase your Navigo ticket upon arrival to the train station from the kiosk. Prices are €11.40 (adult) and € 7.90 (for kids 4-9 years)
Bus: Prior to the pandemic, there were two shuttles running from the airport into Paris. Our favorite, LeBus, had a stop right in front of our hotel. When we visited in 2022, we were so sad to see that it had not survived the pandemic. There is still one shuttle bus service left, the Roissy bus. It travels non-stop between the airport and Paris-Opera stop, a journey of about 60 minutes.
Taxi/Uber: This is probably the most expensive option, but worth every penny. You are so tired when you land that it’s just too easy to walk right outside, hop in a car and be dropped off right in front of your hotel. No long walks or escalators lugging your suitcases around. Trust me on this one. Make sure you set up your Uber account before arriving. I have both Lyft and Uber downloaded so I can check prices on both.
If you’re arriving in Paris by train from another European city, your options are pretty similar. Hop in the taxi lane, call an Uber or take the Metro to your hotel.
TOP THINGS TO DO
Paris is a huge city with so many world class monuments and museums that it would take several trips to see it all. I can’t recommend purchasing the Rick Steves Paris guidebook enough (yes, my guide is recommending his guide, it’s that good and inexpensive. I have even checked them out of the library for free before). His guides break down your sightseeing days by neighborhood (to prevent backtracking), his self-guided city tours are easy to follow and informative and his museum highlight tours are the absolute best. We never go to Europe without his guides.
Museums
Paris is home to some of the world's best art museums. The best way to see them all is to purchase The Museum Pass, you can purchase this online and download it as an e-ticket. You can purchase a 2, 4 or 6 day ticket. I highly recommend buying your ticket in advance. Pay close attention to what days certain museums are closed. We made that mistake on our first trip to find the museum we wanted to visit was closed and had to rearrange our plans. There are so many museums and sights that it would be impossible to see them all during one visit. These are the ones I think you should prioritize on that first trip:
The Louvre Museum - Closed on Tuesdays. Enter from the Mall below or from the secret entrance to the left of the Pyramid. Can’t miss: Winged Victory, The Mona Lisa and Venus de Milo.We love visiting Napoleon’s apartments as well. Pro Tip: After you visit The Louvre, take a walk through the Tuileries Gardens, ride the Carousel and head towards the Place de la Concorde or visit the Orangerie Museum
Musée d'Orsay - Closed on Mondays. This is our favorite museum in Paris and we go every time. I recommend grabbing a museum map when you enter and have staff circle the exhibits that you want to see. Exhibits move frequently. Also, don’t miss your photo op at the big clock upstairs with the Sacre Coeur in the background.
Rodin’s The Thinker
If you have time:
Musée de l'Orangerie - Must see: Monet Water Lilies
Rodin Museum - Must see: The Thinker
Army Museum - Must see: Napoleon’s Tomb
Notre-Dame Cathedral: Even though you can no longer tour the cathedral due to renovations after the fire. Seeing Notre Dame is a must see in my opinion. What an amazing sight it is to stand in front and marvel at the cathedral that was constructed in 1163. Head across the bridge to walk down the Left Bank for side views. We love to walk along the river towards the back to see the flying buttresses.
The cutest bookstore in Paris and right across the river from Notre Dame Cathedral
In the neighborhood - These are our favorite spots all within a couple of blocks walk from Notre-Dame:
Shakespeare & Company: Famous bookstore, usually has a long line. It’s worth popping in for a look
Odette Paris: Cutest little bakery around the corner from Shakespeare & Co. Totally instagrammable and the macarons and cream puffs are yummy!
The Latin Quarter - Turn right from Odette and you’ll pass the St. Severin’s Church. The best crepe we’ve ever had in Paris is right across the lane (in a Greek restaurant of all places)
Berthillion - The best ice cream you’ll have in Paris. You can eat inside or order at the window
Sainte-Chapelle - You will literally gasp as you enter the cathedral built in the 1200’s from the spiral staircases. The stained glass is breathtaking. Entry is included in the Paris Museum Pass
The breathtaking stained glass windows of Sainte-Chapelle Chapel (c.1248)
Eiffel Tower: We have visited Paris so often that our only rule now is to see the Eiffel Tower every day and eat a crepe. We like to start at Trocadero (take the Metro or have an Uber drop you off) and make your way down towards the Eiffel Tower. Pause at various stops along the way for the best photos. We love seeing the Eiffel Tower from different vantage points and will usually walk a block or two in either direction to see her framed by trees and buildings.
While many people love going up the Eiffel Tower, I think the best views in Paris have her in it. For more information on tickets to visit the Eiffel Tower click here. As with most sights in Europe, you’ll want to purchase your tickets in advance.
In the neighborhood - Our favorite things to see or do near and around the Eiffel Tower:
Champs de Mars: This is the large park behind the Eiffel Tower. It’s the perfect spot for a picnic or bike ride on a nice day. The Fall foliage is stunning here.
Island of Cygnes - This is a little walk from the Eiffel Tower, but it was fun to see the replica Statue of Liberty erected three years after the one in New York, in 1889.
Princess Diana Memorial: The Flame of Liberty (Pl. de l'Alma) which is a full-size replica of the flame of the torch of the Statue of Liberty sits right above the tunnel where Princess Diana was killed in a car wreck. The Flame became an impromptu memorial to Diana after her death and mourners still leave flowers and notes at this sight.
The unofficial Princess Diana Memorial is located above the tunnel where she was killed
Seine River Cruise: You can hop on a Seine River cruise right in front of the Eiffel Tower. We like to hop on about an hour before sunset (4:30 in the winter time). The round trip cruise takes you along the Seine past the Musee d’Orsay and turns around after Notre Dame Cathedral If you time it right, you’ll return to the Eiffel Tower as night is falling and get to see her light up. It’s quite a sight! Pick a cruise that has seating inside and outside if the weather is chilly or raining. We booked the Bateaux Parisien cruise and had a great time.
One of the best ways to see Paris and the Eiffel Tower is from a Seine River Cruise
Arc de Triomphe: This is one of my favorite monuments in Paris. It’s at the end of the Champs-Elysees. If you’re looking for some of the best views of Paris, with the Eiffel Tower in it, I recommend purchasing a ticket to climb to the top. You can enter the monument by taking the escalator on the corner down and walking under the street. Best photo op of the Arc is to stand in the median on the Champs-Elysees (just look for people standing in the middle of the road). Afterwards, stroll down the Champs to shop, grab a bite to eat and people watch.
The best views of Paris can be seen from atop the Arc de Triomphe
Montmartre: This is my favorite neighborhood in Paris. To me, it’s quintessential Paris. Confession: I did not visit Montmartre on my first visit to Paris. We only had three days in Paris and with four kids it didn’t make the cut. My sister and I added it to our first trip together to Paris (with no kids) and loved it so much we spent half a day there. While most people start their visit to Montmartre at the base of the Sacre Coeur and hike up to the church, we head left in front of the carousel, meander to Van Gogh’s home and just wind around to Le Consulat. Every street in Montmartre is a dream. Make sure you bring an extra phone charger. This entire neighborhood is an Instagram dream.
OTHER PARIS FAVORITES:
Catacombs of Paris - If this is on your list, buy timed tickets in advance. You can’t buy tickets at the door.
Le Palais Garnier - Masterpiece of belle epoque architecture; I recommend the self guided tour. Aftewards, head across the street to marvel at the gorgeous Galeries Lafayette and head up to the cafe and top floor for fantastic views of Paris on a clear day
Pere Lachaise Cemetery - Final resting place of Chopin, Oscar Wilde, Jim Morrison and Gertrude Stein. Take a tour or bring a map. The cemetery is huge and we got lost several times
Movies set in Paris sights: If you’re a Midnight in Paris fan, head over to the church of Saint-Etienne-du-Mont (behind the Pantheon) to sit on the steps where Gil waited for the 1920 Pugeot. Emily in Paris fans can visit the charming courtyard in front of her apartment located at 1 Place del’Estrapade.
Pere Lachaise Cemetery established in 1804 and absolutely stunning in the fall
VISITING VERSAILLES
Make sure to opt for an audio guide so you know what you’re looking at
I highly recommend taking a day trip to Versailles. It’s about 30 minutes outside of Paris and if you see it all, it is a true day trip. We chose to do Versailles on our own (because we like to be in control of our own time) and I’m so glad we did. We took an Uber (around $40) that dropped us right in front of the gates. You can also take the Metro which is cheaper depending on the number of people in your group. Make sure to purchase timed tickets in advance. I recommend booking the very first entry time to avoid the huge crowds that come when the tour buses arrive.
You can purchase your tickets directly from Versailles (which is what we did) or you can take a guided tour.
TIPS FOR VISITING VERSAILLES
Prepurchase timed entry tickets in advance. If you just show up, you will have to get in two lines. One to purchase your tickets and another to enter Versailles.
Book the first entry of the day to avoid crowds
Make sure ticket includes access to Versailles, Estate of Trianon and the gardens
Versailles is huge, and there is little shade in the gardens. Wear comfortable shoes and sun cover. There are little cafes sprinkled around, we brought some snacks to keep us going.
Golf cart rentals are available to rent in the gardens, but be mindful of the time limit, it’s very expensive if you go over the time (which we did).
Don’t forget to visit Marie Antoinette’s Hamlet - we spent hours here.
We spent hours exploring the Queen’s Hamlet at Versailles - it’s a must see!
FAVORITE PARIS TREATS:
Angelina Paris
Crepes: You can’t come to Paris and not eat a crepe. You’ll see crepe stands everywhere, but the best one we have ever had is in the Latin Quarter in a greek food stand (seriously) that my sister discovered in 2005 (Topo: 10 Rue St-Severin)
Angelina’s: This is the best hot chocolate I’ve ever had in my life. It’s like someone melted a candy bar in my cup. Lines are usually very long to get inside, but there is a shorter line where you can just order a cup to go. Totally worth it, especially in the Fall. Located just up the street from The Louvre.
We visited Laduree on Champs-Elysees and had some of the best macarons I've ever tasted. The restaurant is Instagrammable and usually has long lines. There is a shorter line inside where you can get your macaroons to go. These make the best souvenirs for friends back home and the box is so cute.
PARIS TRAVEL TIPS:
GETTING AROUND: For us, walking is the best way to get around Paris. It’s such a gorgeous city with so much to see that it won’t feel like exercise. We walked three miles to Montmartre once while it was snowing and it was truly magical. Tired of walking? The Metro is your cheapest option to get around although I felt our tickets were so glitchy with our last trip that at almost every entrance one of us had a problem with our tickets scanning. We also budget enough for Uber. It’s super convenient we just sightsee until we’re tired and then call for an Uber. Worth every dime to be dropped off in front of your hotel after a long day of walking.
If you have kids, I highly recommend booking a Hop on Hop off bus tour. you can see a lot in a day and save little feet from getting tired.
CURRENCY: I always suggest getting cash (Euros) from the ATM at the airport. There’s one in CDG airport right across from the currency exchange after you exit customs. You’ll need cash to use the bathroom and to tip (even McDonald’s charges €.50 to potty here). Also, anytime you swipe your credit card for a purchase and they ask you if you want to pay in Euro or USD, always select Euros. Their conversions are typically higher than standard if you select USD. Don’t forget to bring a credit card that does not charge foreign transaction fees.
BATHROOMS: Look for signs that say WC. We have encountered some less than desirable bathrooms in Paris (even in Starbucks) so prepare for this. You can count on clean bathrooms in museums and most large restaurants. We always have a little pack of handiwipes just in case.
SAFETY: At every major tourist site in Paris you will be approached by people trying to scam you. Avoid the ladies with clipboards, they say they want you to sign a petition and will aggressively ask for money. Just say no. Avoid the guys at Sacre Coeur and the Eiffel Tower that want to give you a flower or put a string bracelet on your wrist. Once that bracelet is on your wrist, they will ask for money. Just stay away from these people and watch your pockets during the shell games. Also, when dining at an outdoor cafe, do not leave your purse or phone on the table. We have seen people get their items stolen while dining by thieves running by.
PARIS OLYMPICS:
For all things Paris Olympics including events, venues, street closures, etc., refer to this website for up to date information. The Olympics begin July 26th and run through September 8, 2024.
DINING: Restaurants here have different serving times than we do in the U.S. We have found ourselves starving at 3pm to find that no restaurants are open or serve dinner until 6pm. I think it’s hard to plan meals when we’re sightseeing but if you’re traveling with kids you’ll want to keep an eye on service times or you’ll have some very tired and hungry kids on your hands. Also, always ask for tap water at the restaurant, otherwise, they’ll bring a large glass bottle out for the table and charge you for it.
Happy Travels!
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