FOUR DAYS IN THE DOLOMITES: HOW TO GET THERE, WHERE TO STAY AND WHAT TO SEE AND DO
Last summer Payton and I spent three days in the Italian Dolomites before heading to the Amalfi Coast (you can read more about that trip here). Planning how to get there and which towns to base ourselves in was the most time-consuming portion of my trip planning. We ended up choosing where to stay based on the activities we planned to do and would definitely make the same choice on a return trip.
Let me preface this post by saying that I am not a hiker by any means (we live in Texas and options are limited) but I do love spending time in the mountains. This itinerary is for all skill levels. I really believe the mountains, and the outdoors is for everyone, and the Dolomites really make it accessible for most abilities by access via gondola and cable car system and being able to drive to many of the most famous viewpoints.
OUR FOUR DAY ITINERARY
Day 1:
Arrive in Milan
Train to Verona - pick up rental car
Drive to Ortisei - Check in, drop bags, explore town and eat dinner
Day 2: Ortisei
Cable car to Alpe di Siusi - hike; lunch at a refugio
Gondola to Seceda - hike
Drive to Cortina afterwards
Day 3: Cortina dAmpezzo
Drive to Tre Cime - short hike
Stop at Lago di Misurina for lunch
Back to Cortina to explore town/dinner
Day 4:
Drive back to Verona via Lago di Braies and Val de Funes
Drop off rental car in Verona, explore, eat dinner
Day 5:
Wake up early, explore more of Verona
Head to airport and fly to Naples
HOW TO GET HERE
The Dolomites are a mountain range located in Northern Italy. They are part of the Italian Alps. While you can drive here from almost anywhere, if you’re coming specifically to visit the Dolomites, there are two common ways to arrive: via Venice or Milan.
From Venice or Milan, you have several options:
rent a car and drive
train to Verona, rent a car and drive
train to Bolzano, rent a car
HOW WE DID IT
Since we were able to use points to fly into Milan, we chose to train from the Milan Airport to Verona (Verona Porta Nuova). We did have to first take a train to the Milano Centrale station and switch trains to go to Verona. The process was very easy. Once at the Verona train station you can take the airport shuttle or taxi to the airport to pick up your rental car. I did have the option of taking a train from Milan to Bolzano (largest town at the gateway to the Dolomites) but rental cars were more expensive there so we chose to pick one up in Verona.
Read how we redeemed points to fly business class to Italy for just $128 on Emirates business class!
There’s no need to pre-purchase your train tickets. It was very easy to follow the signs towards the train after we exited customs and we bought our tickets on site. I did research departure times and routes ahead of time to save time but there is train staff around the kiosks to help you with your purchase. If you do decide to pre-purchase your tickets, make sure you build in time for flight delays and eating lunch after that red-eye flight.
While it’s possible to visit the Dolomites without renting a car and using public transportation please note that buses will not get you everywhere you want to go, so I will really encourage you to rent a car when you’re visiting the Dolomites. Driving is super easy, parking can be a little bit challenging, but trust me. If I can do it, so can you.
Arriving in Ortisei
WHERE TO STAY
While there are dozens and dozens of small, adorable mountain villages in the Dolomites, we chose to base ourselves in Ortisei and Cortina d’Ampezzo since they were closest to everything we planned to do. This turned out to be a great choice for us. If we had more time I would stay an extra night in Ortisei - it’s just the cutest little mountain town ever. Or, I would have done Cortina first then wrapped it up in quaint Ortisei.
WHERE WE STAYED
Ortisei:
We stayed one night at the B&B Villa Angelino. I booked a twin room. Our room was small, but cozy and we had a balcony with fantastic views. A wonderful breakfast was included. The location was perfect. Steps from the city center with lots of restaurants and grocery stores and about a 10-minute walk to both chairlifts.
Cortina d’Ampezzo: We stayed two nights in Cortina (future home of the 2026 Winter Olympics! It is a much bigger city than Ortisei. I almost wished I would have booked this first, then continued on to the smaller Ortisei. Also, there was a lot of construction in preparation for the 2026 Winter Olympics so while driving around was fairly easy, parking was impossible. Luckily, we stayed fairly close to the city center and just opted to walk everywhere. It was a 10-minute walk to the city center pedestrian zone. I highly recommend this property when visiting. It felt like you were out of town, had underground parking and was such an easy walk into the town. Perfect home base!
We stayed two nights at the Boutique Hotel Villa Blu Cortina in a twin room. The room was fairly small, but we had a nice little balcony facing the mountains. The bathroom had only a bathtub with a handheld shower head, so take note that there is not a stand-up shower. Breakfast was not included in our rate that I booked, but there is a small grocery store just a couple of blocks away.
GETTING AROUND
We rented a car in Verona on Expedia. I like to rent cars on Expedia because I don’t have to pay until I arrive (which gives me more time to research prices) plus the additional insurance is pretty cheap. I highly recommend getting a rental car for this portion of the trip. Driving around is super easy.
There were tolls from Verona to Ortisei but we just used a credit card to tap through.
Pro Tip: Make sure that you take a video of the entire exterior of the car, including the windshield, back side of the rearview mirrors, etc. when you pick it up and make sure that you do the same thing when you return it.
DAY ONE: Arrival
Ortisei
I typically don’t like to schedule anything on arrival day. It’s a day for exploring the city and just trying to recover from jet lag. I knew this was going to be a long travel day and had we had more time, I would have taken the train to Verona and stayed one night there.
We arrived in Ortisei in late afternoon, dropped our bags at the hotel, walked into town (less than five minutes) and had a great little pizza dinner outside.
DAY TWO - ORTISEI
Ortisei is one of three towns in the Dolomites that make up the Val Gardena Valley. While you can’t go wrong with staying in any of the towns, staying in Ortisei means you can walk to both cable cars that will take you to the Alpe di Siusi and Seceda. Plus, it’s the cutest mountain town I’ve ever been in. Sure wish I would have booked another night here. When we planned our trip, I only had Alpe di Siusi on my list but it was so easy to get to that we ended up having time to walk across town to the other cable car to see Seceda.
If you know ahead of time that you will be riding both cable cars, it will save you money to buy a ticket that covers both cable cars like the Val Gardena Pass. You can see ticket options here including multi day which means you can ride as often as you want within a certain day period. This would be great if you’re staying a few days, and you can catch both a sunrise and a sunset on the mountain.
Alpe di Siusi (SEISER ALM)
Alpe di Siusi (known as Seiser Alm in German) is the highest alpine meadow in Europe. The cable car that takes you there is in the heart of Ortisei. It is very easy to find and walkable if you’re staying in the city center. You can purchase your ticket at the station and although we walked, we did see a parking garage right underneath the station if you are driving. Just a quick scenic ride up. The best views are as you exit the cable car. So if you had no interest in hiking, you could just take the cable car up, grab lunch or dinner with a view and then ride it back down.
There are several hikes you can do of all difficulty levels. We chose to do a loop that started at the cable station but turned around at the first Refugio (hut) since we had limited time. The trail is pretty easy and regular tennis shoes were suitable for this hike.
SECEDA
As I mentioned above, we did not think we would have enough time to do Seceda on the same day as we did Alpe di Siusi. Granted, we spent just a couple of hours in Seiser Alm, just a short hike and stop at the first hut we came to, then we turned back. We noticed that the gondola to Seceda was also right in town on the other side of the city center, so we stopped at the tiny grocery store to restock our backpacks then headed up to the Seceda gondola station.
The line was a little long but moved very quickly. If you purchased your multi-lift/multi-day pass at the Alpe di Siusi station, then you can just get in line for the gondola.
Please note that the trip to Seceda is via a two-cable car system. The gondola stops first at Furnes where you will exit the car and walk over to the larger cable car that continues on to the very top at Seceda. We didn’t realize this and got off on the first stop and started heading down a trail until we figured out we had done something wrong and went back to the cable car station. You have to use your ticket to get on the second cable car that takes you to Seceda. Also note that on the way down, you’ll need your ticket to be able to get through the turnstiles to the second car that takes you back to Ortisei. I know it sounds confusing, just follow the people and hold on to your tickets.
Just like Alpe di Siusi, if you did nothing but ride the cable car up you would see the most amazing views without doing any hiking. If you’re able to, I highly recommend hiking up here. We ventured left on the trail that goes to the overlook. I took my time huffing and puffing on my way up there. The rewards are even more amazing views. Then we looped around back to the first hut where we stopped for lunch and drinks before taking the gondola back to town. This was truly amazing, and I can’t believe we almost missed it. Do not come all this way and not see this.
seceda tips:
When you buy a lift ticket for the cable car/gondola, make sure you purchase an ‘up and down’ ticket. Remember to keep the ticket handy as you’ll need it to get on the second car on the way up and you’ll need it to get back down.
There is a bar at the Seceda gondola station in Ortisei where you can grab food, a drink and use the bathroom. We made a small purchase using a larger bill (we asked first if they could break it) and the bartender shorted us by almost half when he gave me my change back. I don’t know if he thinks we were stupid and couldn’t count but smiled and gave us the correct change after asking him about it. His partner apologized and I imagine he does this to tourists all day long- so be careful and always count your change when paying with cash
If you plan to do serious hiking here, make sure you bring a great pair of hiking shoes. We knew we would only be doing light hiking and wore regular tennis shoes.
After spending a few hours on Seceda, we walked back to the car (at the hotel) and headed towards Cortina.
CORTINA D’AMPEZZO
We must have pulled over a dozen times on our way to Cortina
The drive from Ortisei to Cortina was absolutely gorgeous. We drove through so many small mountain towns and winding roads that will have you oohing and aahing the entire way. Make sure you build in enough time for traffic and to pull over at the dozens of scenic pull outs. Be prepared for traffic backups on the switchbacks, especially when big tour buses are coming around the corner. We had loaded the car with drinks and snacks and a great playlist and really enjoyed the road trip to Cortina.
Cinque Torri (Five Towers) - we actually drove by the entrance to Cinque Torri on our way from Ortisei to Cortina. Had I known that we could have pulled over and taken a cable car ride up to the top - we would have absolutely stopped. So, if you have enough time, put this one on your list. It looks absolutely amazing.
DAY THREE: Tre Cime di Lavaredo
We woke up very early on day three because we wanted to make sure we got to Tre Cime as close to opening as possible. The 40-minute drive from Cortina is absolutely gorgeous. When we arrived at the park entrance, there was a backup to get in which took about 15 minutes before we were able to get through the toll booth. There is a digital sign at the park entrance that lists the number of parking spaces remaining in the park. Once the parking lot is full, you will have to wait for cars to exit before cars can enter. Parking is $30 per car. (Please note that the toll road is closed from late October to late May).
An alternative to driving is to take the park shuttle bus from Cortina or Misurina to the Auronzo Hut. An advantage to this is the shuttle bypasses the long toll booth line and drops you off right in front of the Auronzo Hut so no long walk or hike from the car.
After you park make your way to Rifugio Auronzo (you can’t miss it, it’s the only building up there). The trailhead to both popular hikes begins right in front of the Refugio. You’ll want to take the trail on the right to do the most popular hike. It is a loop, but you can turn back at any time as there are others going the opposite direction. The trail is loose gravel so make sure to wear hiking shoes. Regular tennis shoes will not offer you enough traction/support (which was all we had and didn’t feel safe completing the entire hike).
LAGO DI MISURINA
You’ll pass Misurina Lake on the way to Tre Cime. It’s absolutely stunning. We stopped on the way back to Cortina to walk around a little bit and grab a snack at the Despar grocery store. Prepare to pay for parking here.
We arrived back in Cortina in the afternoon, parked the car at the hotel and walked 10 minutes to the city center to eat dinner and replenish our hotel/car snacks and drinks.
DAY FOUR: LAGO DI BRAIeS AND SANTA MADDALENA
Today was our last day in the Dolomites. The plan was to visit Lago di Braies and Santa Maddalena church before heading back to Verona. We checked out of the hotel and headed towards Lago di Braies which was about an hour's drive from Cortina. We knew we wanted to arrive as close to opening as possible to ensure we could get a parking spot and because we wanted to rent a boat without a long line.
LAGO DI BRAIES (PRAGSER WILDSEE)
We had so much fun renting a boat on Lago Braies
As you approach the lake you’ll pass by three different parking lots. Two are very close and the third is quite a walking distance away. Everything I read said to be here by 0730-0800. We got here around 0900 and there were a lot of spots left in the closest parking lot. We left after 10:30am and there were still a lot of spots left. I’ve heard it’s completely different in July, so I wouldn't chance arriving after 0900 in July and expecting a close parking spot.
If you are visiting in July, I recommend pre-paying parking online as I’ve heard lots fill up quickly that time of year.
The first thing we did was head straight to the boat rentals. You can do a shared boat ride for a lower fee. Payton and I wanted to take some photos and this was really a highlight for us so I had budgeted the boat rental in my trip costs. Let me tell you though that rowing that boat wasn’t as easy as it looks. Payton had to take over because I wasn’t coordinated enough.
After the boat ride you can explore the trails around the lake. We headed to the cafe near the lodge for a snack and to use the bathrooms before we headed to our next stop. The Hotel Lago di Braies sits right on the bank of the lake and would be another great option for lodging, but there is nothing else out here.
SANTA MADDALENA
Just a 1.5-hour drive from Lago di Braies, Santa Maddalena is a tiny village in the Val de Funes. There is a popular hike that gives you a view of the Santa Maddalena church with the mountains in the background. If you had more time, you could do this from Ortisei, the first town we stayed in (but it’s still a 1.5-hour drive). We were able to find paid parking in the small town pretty easily and just followed google maps up the hill towards the church to find the trail. From town, the hike is around 30-45 minutes. This was worth the extra time to get here. I bet sunsets and sunrises are amazing. It started raining pretty hard halfway up so we turned around and didn’t get the full view. After our hike, we jumped back in the car and headed back to Verona.
HAVE MORE TIME? WHAT TO SEE AND DO IN AND AROUND CORTINA
LAGO DI SORAPIS - this is one of the most popular hikes in the Dolomites. Lago di Sorapis (Lake Sorapis), is a mountain lake with stunning turquoise water. If you plan to do this hike, you want to be there at daybreak. It’s about a 15 minute drive from Cortina. There is no parking lot so keep in mind that you’ll be parking alongside the road. The hike is considered moderate and there and back is a little over 7 miles.
Gorgeous Lago Sorapis
CIMA TOFANA - Tofana di Mezzo is the third highest peak in the Dolomites and you can reach the trailhead by taking the Tofana-Freccia nel Cielo Cable Car from the center of Cortina. To reach the top, it is a three cable car system. You can walk to the cable car station in Cortina or park in the paid lot right at the station. We had planned to go up to watch a sunset and have a drink and just ran out of time.
FINAL THOUGHTS
We absolutely loved our time in the Dolomites. It was such a nice balance to the second part of our trip spent on the Amalfi Coast. Whether you come to the Dolomites to hike or just to relax and take in the absolute beauty of the region, I feel this deserves a spot on your Italy bucket list!
Happy Travels!
Want more Italy inspiration? Follow our onward trip to Verona here and the Amalfi Coast here!